Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a international community of cities metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city is no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to explore these stories and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
